DP members: ignore this (or dont if youre 2 edgy). This is a spoilers version of this tutorial.
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Reviewed and spellchecked by Larfen. Thank you based Larfen.
Sorry for possible poor english.
Also big images ahead.
This is a singleplayer related tutorial, what you read here may/may not be applicable in multiplayer but it probably is really hard to use.
I wouldn’t advise absolute beginners to read this tutorial if they want to learn how to make good hits, as it is more towards people who are already somewhat capable and wish to further improve their skills, not really towards people who want to learn the basics. It's not an extremely advanced tutorial either though. The tutorial is illustrated with pictures (almost all from myself, because I'm a great role model
), and they are essential to this tutorial, so be sure that you are able to see them and tell me if any of them does not work.
When I first started writing this, it was a boomhit tutorial, but it later evolved into just a general hits tutorial. So, hitting Uke tutorial it is.
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So as you probably already know, a boomhit is a hit that deals 3 or more dismemberments in one frame, or during a period of frames that varies if you ask different people (the general consensus is 5 frames, though I wouldn’t generalize it like that). You can hit with any body part you wish, though the most common boom is done with your legs or arms. Booms are usually done by dismembering chest or crotch joints, since you have multiple joints close to eachother in those locations.
I want to start with fundamentals, things you should know before you make a boomhit. These abilities will help you a ton. Not only with booms but with replaymaking in general. Let us start with ghosting.
Ghosting/Penetration
Because Toribash runs on frames instead of real time, every time you skip a single frame with Shift+P or Shift+Spacebar, Tori and Uke move a significant distance without any physical contact registering. They just teleport to a position calculated by the game. This is why ghosting is possible (besides the biceps/thighs ghosting glitch, where you can move your arms through your legs), and it is possibly the most important thing in making boomhits. This allows you to make your bodyparts reach/”teleport” inside Uke and hit more joints at the same time.
That is a difference of 1 frame. As you see, my foot just teleported inside Uke, it did not “move” there.
So as you may have concluded, the trick to getting a lot of penetration is simple: get your leg/hand/whatever part you are hitting with as close as possible to Uke, but without touching him. If you touch him, the hit will register and your bodypart will bounce back and probably only hit 1 joint. However, if you succeed in doing it, you will get very close to Uke without having the hit register, and, in the next frame, the game will teleport your bodypart to the next position that it is supposed to be in (according to your speed and direction), which hopefully will be inside Uke, and in physical contact with more joints.
Here is an example of how you should not do it:
As you see, in the first frame, my foot is pretty far from Uke, but still close enough so that in the next frame it will hit his glutes. The problem though is that it is not going fast enough to move that much distance and land inside Uke the very next frame. I just hits the surface of one joint, as you can see on the second picture, and in this case it didn’t give me any dismemberments.
The command /sm 1 brings up the speedometer, which measures the speed of your (or Uke's) fastest bodypart in toriunits (yeah I don’t know what that is either), and it is a useful tool when you are trying to edit a specific frame and trying to go slightly faster. I am saying this because speed is complementary to ghosting. If you are unable to reach decent speeds, you will have a lot of trouble with ghosting. The distance that your bodypart moves in between frames (like I explained above) can obviously be incremented with higher speeds, which brings me to the next subject:
Speed
Gotta go fast. You can’t come up with huge booms if you don’t go fast. Shook already covers speed pretty well in his booms tutorial, but I will try to add new things.
This is very essential, as I already covered in the ghosting section (it would be very hard to explain ghosting without explaining speed, since speed is very important to ghosting), so I’ll talk about a bit more specific situations.
Relaxed joints go very fast. This is great to know when you want to make a hit, but are in a position that is not favorable. The most common situation I can think of is when you want to make a hook kick. Picture of a hook kick for reference:
(This is a kick where the force comes from contracting the knee and extending the hip, for the most part)
Imagine you want to make a kick just like that, and you are already in the position shown in the picture, except your hip is too contracted! looks like you are out of luck, should have fixed it earlier in the kick setup lol The logical way to fix it would probably be to edit the replay like 10ish frames before the kick lands, and slow down your movement, so that the hip has more time to go to the desired position. I imagine some of you already found yourselves in this situation. Did you ever try to relax the hip, though? If you are going at a reasonable speed, you will find that, often, if you relax your hip and contract your knee, your leg will move behind you faster than if you extended the hip.
Another strange thing about relaxed joints: sometimes relaxing a glute, while kicking, will make your kick wider than if you extended the glute. In theory, it doesn’t reach any wider than if you extended it, but it reaches that maximum extended position faster. You would use that in a kick where you want your legs to be wide open, like so:
This “trick” works like the elbows and wrists trick (extend wrists contract elbows to contract your elbows instantly, contract wrists extend elbows to extend your elbows instantly (which is another very useful trick, if you don’t know it (unlikely))), as in it allows you to reach a certain position faster than you would if you simply tried to do it intuitively. You should always take into account that speed and momentum sometimes make your joints move very fast on their own, without any extending or contracting. I have recently been working on a head throw to try and make a 4 dm skeet, and an interesting find was that, when I swung my arm to throw my own head at Uke (by raising my shoulder), if I relaxed the shoulder joint mid-swing, it would actually achieve higher speeds in the next few frames than if I continued raising it. This is due to the fact that the head is a very heavy body part and allowed me to create insane momentum in the beginning of the swing. A relaxed joint does not go anywhere in specific, it goes where the momentum pulls it, and sometimes the momentum is stronger than your joints.
Speaking of relaxed joints, the use of a relaxed ankle. Relaxing your ankle is a popular trick to get more penetration easily during a simple kick. What actually happens is that, when you ankle is relaxed, the force applied by the knee makes the ankle extend really fast, like so:
As you can see, the ankle is progressively extending (extending faster than it would if it was actually extended, which confirms what I wrote before). Now the reasons why relaxing your ankle works well:
1.
A relaxed ankle gathers more speed than any other state. Bring up the speedometer (/sm 1), and measure the speed of the few frames before a kick in your replay (a kick where you didn’t use relaxed ankle). Now relax the ankle and measure the speed again, you will probably observe a more intense acceleration. The downside is the inability to control the position that your ankle acquires during the moments before the kick, which is usually flat like in the pictures above. That means that if you want to make your ankle look contracted, but still gather more speed by relaxing it, you will have a hard time.
2.
The ankle acquires a flat position relative to the lower part of the leg.
When your kick gets close to Uke, your foot will not get in the way of the rest of the leg, which allows the shin to participate in the destruction:
If the ankle was contracted, the tip of the foot would have been the only thing to hit Uke:
Obviously I am not hitting as many joints as in the first picture.
Beware though, that an overly extended ankle can also be prejudicial if the shin is the only thing that hits Uke and the foot doesn’t do anything.
That is about speed on a small scale, but I know there are people that find trouble with getting their whole body moving fast. There is not much I can say about moving your entire body fast or conserving momentum, because those can be taught with general tips (that will work in most situations). The most common way is the kick the ground. The best possible opener (in a practical point of view) is to fall to the ground and get in a position where you can push yourself off it and towards Uke. The most popular opener that works like this is relaxing all and extending both glutes. I also find that holding joints like pecs and the chest conserves momentum much better than if I extended/contracted them. This is basic tricking knowledge but I don’t do that so I wrote it here anyway because I can.
Grabs
"I have a problem. During a kick (with help from a grab), my grab makes it so that the piece that I am grabbing is too far away for my foot to reach."
Like in the following pictures:
As you see in the second picture, the only thing that my foot hits is the neck. My goal is to hit all the other joints that I am grabbing, the chest and the pec aswell. In this situation, you can replace the grab. You want your grab to be placed in a way so that it does not block your kick, and that it places the uke joints at a good distance. In this case, the optimal option would be to grab the chest piece by its bottom, like so:
This allows your leg to reach the other joints.
This also works the other way around. If the piece you are grabbing is too close to your shin or knee, grab with a part of the hand that is farther away from the wrist.
Contract your elbow a bit. Contracting your elbow while grabbing something is a way to decrease the distance between what you are grabbing and your body. This is not a very reliable way to fix it, because it sacrifices power, since the elbow contraction moves the bodypart you are grabbing farther away from your foot during the kick. What you want to do is contract the elbow a decent amount of frames before the hit, and right before the hit (about 2 frames), you extend the elbow and contract the wrist. This looks twitchy, but works from a practical point of view. The wrist contraction is only there to make the elbow extend faster, and to possibly compensate for the lost power from the elbow contraction.
Grab placement is something that I see is often neglected and causes people trouble. I’ve had a few friends say that they are having trouble with kicking Uke despite having edited the replay tons of times, when their problem was on their grab placement. Plus, a good grab will make your life much easier during the editing of the rest of the hit.
How do I want to place my grab?
Grabbing, when not used for aesthetical purposes, is a tool. Tools should make your goal easier. When you want to kick something that you are grabbing, the grab should not be placed in the following ways:
1
This is obvious. You are just going to kick your hand instead of the torso piece you are grabbing.
And no dms happened that day
2
This one only applies if you are kicking with the leg from the same side as the arm you are grabbing the piece with. Eg. Kicking with the right leg and grabbing with also the right arm. This doesn’t not apply if you are, for example, kicking with the right leg and grabbing with the left arm. This does not apply to hook kicks either. This is a quite long list of exceptions for a situation that is also obvious.
In this situation,
my chest is rotating right and I am going to attempt to kick the torso piece with my right leg. Once again, it’s obvious that to hit that torso piece, I would have to ghost through my own arm, and even that would be difficult because it requires a lot of glute extension. The grab should be placed in the opposite side of the piece, so that your leg would be able to reach it.
That’s all I can remember at the moment, besides what I had already written before.
Abs
I have a problem. During a kick with my glutes extended (with help from a grab), my leg flies right under the piece that I am grabbing, despite me having my shoulder lowered completely and legs wide open.
I literally couldn’t find any replays where this happens, I’m really sorry. Please send me one if you have. It’s a thing that happens when you are kicking with your glutes almost completely extended and the power of the kick comes mostly from your chest rotating. It seems that your leg just can’t reach the part you are grabbing.
This is mostly because of
abs and hip movement.
The abs is a very important joint that I see many people just contracting it all the way through hits. Contracting it makes you bend forward, while extending it makes you bend back. This is very useful for kicks, as everyone knows, but it is a joint that is still not used enough, as it is the king of awkward kicks aiming.
^this image is pretty inaccurate, but you can get the idea of how the abs works in kicks.
I use an extended abs very often for kicks where I have a grab, but did not get my grabbing arm to a good position. Example:
You can see here that my arm is still too raised, and that contracting my hip would make my leg swing under Uke’s head, missing his body completely. I could fix that, but there is an advantage to this type of kick. It is very powerful. It might be one of my favourite ways to kick Uke. If I tried to turn this into a regular front kick, by contracting the left pec a bit so that I could kick the torso in front of my body, I would lose a lot of power.
This kick is characterized by extending the hip you are using to kick, contracting the opposite hip, bringing your grabbing arm behind you and extending the abs. The abs extension here is a good example to help you understand its usefulness in strange kicks.
I have attached the replay of this picture as “nice kick”.
As you might have figured out, this only applies if you are using the leg from the same side as the arm you are using to grab. I am only saying this now, because there is actually a very awkward way to make a kick like this while grabbing with the opposite arm, but it is very strange and I not even sure how it works completely.
(angle so irreverent I even had to take 2 screens lol)
This is really weird. The power comes from the knee extending, just like a regular front kick. The abs here is, once again, extended, to increase the reach of my leg vertically. This position is achieved very specifically. I had to grab Uke’s hand, and make sure that his torso stayed behind my back, by contracting my elbow and wrist. Whatever I am grabbing in this situation had to be really big or long, so that I could grab it in front of my right pec and be able to kick it behind my back from the opposite side. But nonetheless, the abs here allows me to reach something that was too high for a contracted abs to reach.
I have attached the replay from the picture above named “weird kick”.
These are not situations that happen very often, the reason I am showing these things is to help understand how the joint works. Not the “it makes uke looks at the sky and then at his penis lol” how it works, I mean how it works when you are trying to kick Uke. Most of these situations involve grabs, but most of them can be applied to no grab kicks anyway. The things that are different in no grab kicks, that’s what I want to talk about.
Kicks (without using grab)
Not using a grab to get your kick is often seen as a good thing, because it is more difficult. You don’t have the help of a grab, you have the risk of kicking Uke’s body away from you, and it is more difficult to keep moving afterwards.
So, how should one approach kicking without grabbing?
You should already be moving fast when you start the kick. Because you are not grabbing, you cannot push or pull Uke towards your foot, so you must already have some power in your hit, and you cannot do that standing still. I already talked about this above near the speed section, but there are also other issues you might encounter even if you already have speed.
When you kick Uke, your power transfers to him. You will be slowed down significantly, maybe even to a dead stop. If you do not want this to happen, you want to try:
1.
Ghosting your foot through Uke completely, to the point of phasing your leg through him and continuing the movement with almost all the momentum you had before. This is difficult, because it requires a significant speed (or just really good ghosting). This is easier to do when you are trying to dm a joint that is not close to another joint or close to a big bodypart. A good example would be the knee. Since Uke and Tori have gross spaghetti legs, it is not difficult to ghost through Uke’s leg without colliding with it too much.
2.
Scraping the joint you want to dm. This is not recommended if the hit you want to make is a boomhit, obviously. This works well if you hit the joint with the foot’s corner/vertex.
Continuing the replay after a no grab kick is also an issue. This is very situational, but you should always have your other leg (that you are not using) ready to help you stand up or kick the ground to avoid flying away from Uke. I like to keep the leg in front of me, and sometimes contracted if I am close to the ground.
Okay, so I left punching for last. During the whole tutorial, I’ve only been typing “kicks”, and haven’t referred to punching so far. Arms don’t work exactly the same way as legs, mostly because the wrists, in contrast with the ankles, are bitchy ass joints that break when you do anything ever.
Punching
So, how should I punch Uke?
Punching is actually pretty ineffective unless you are Larfen. However, if you wish to make a punch because you think they look cool, then I guess I can try to help. I don’t punch nearly as often as I do other types of hits, so this might be a short section.
A “real” punch
One where the power comes from the elbow extending. Although I’ve called it a real punch, it doesn’t necessarily have to look real. It’s just a punch where you have your elbow contracted, and then extend it while contracting the pec.
Punching like this is notorious for breaking your wrist very often. For that reason, I do not recommend that you have your wrist completely extended. Contract it for a frame or two and then hold it. When joints are completely extended or contracted, they are easier to break.
You can even try to extend the wrist during the frame right before the hit happens to slightly increase the power of the punch if you have your wrist like this.
It is common sense to contract your respective pec if you are punching like this. I always find that I get more power if I contract the other pec aswell, even though it brings the other arm closer to your chest and might make you do a clap instead of a punch.
For the elbow extension, I frequently have difficulties with extending it when I want. I’m sure you have once tried to extend your completely contracted elbow, and it took a few frames before it started moving. You can solve this by using the contracted wrist trick (contract your wrist while you extend the elbow, and after the elbow starts moving put the wrist back in the position it was before), or by not contracting your elbow completely when preparing the punch. I always find it easier to contract or extend joints that are held or relaxed, instead of contracted or extended.
The elbow extension should be timed correctly so that your elbow reaches maximum extension right when your fist collides with whatever you are punching. It is ok if it is not completely extended when you hit, but it should never extend 100% before your punch hits Uke.
Also, the arm extension does not necessarily need to be an actual extension. Like we’ve seen before, relaxed joints have wicked speed potential, so if you have a lot of momentum, relaxing the elbow might do more good than extending it.
The big downside is what I already said in the beginning. The more power you have in your punch, the more likely your wrist is to break aswell.
Since punching like that is awkward to edit, many people grab with the other arm to help their punch. Using the grab for a punch is not much different from punching without the grab. Use the grab push Uke’s joints in the direction of your fist, which is often achieved by contracting pecs and the elbow of the arm that is grabbing.
You can also introduce extra power by having one shoulder raised and the other lowered, and then reverse the movement, doing a scissor-like movement with both arms. It’s not done often though, as it looks wonky.
Since both of these punches seem lame, most people resort to something more effective, like slapping.
Slap/Backhand
A slap is exactly what it sounds like. You contract your elbow and hit Uke with the inside part of your hand. In contrast with a real punch, the power here comes from contracting the elbow, instead of extending it.
Very much like in a real punch, contracting the opposite pec helps a lot.
However, there is still a big risk of having your wrist break if it is completely extended, which sucks, because like we have seen before, relaxed ankles and wrists achieved higher speeds, and relaxing a wrist will make it extend naturally.
But, there is one huge advantage to doing a slap. You can grab. That doesn’t seem like a huge deal, but remember what we’ve seen about ghosting, and how you want to get your feet and hand very close to Uke without touching him? Well, when you turn grab mode on, your hand gets smaller. This is better demonstrated by pictures.
So I am slapping Uke’s butt right here.
Let’s see what happens next frame.
By this point, my hand is already colliding with Uke. If I pressed space as it is, the hit would register and I would get maybe 1 dismemberment. But, if I toggle grip mode, my hand gets so small that it is not touching the glute anymore.
Now, my hand shall continue to move until it is inside Uke. Once it ghosts through the glutes, I am able to ungrab and deal a lot of damage.
So slaps are cool and effective.
A backhand is pretty much the opposite of a slap. You extend the elbow and hit Uke with the back of your hand.
An interesting hit that I don’t use enough. From what I’ve experienced, hitting with your wrist too contracted will warrant you a wrist dm, and so will doing it with a completely extended wrist. What I would do would be the same that I do for “real” punches. Contract the wrist slightly, and then hold it. Maybe in the frame of the impact extend it, but not if the wrist is very bruised.
It is pretty difficult to punch if your elbow or/and wrist are bruised, since it is easier to break them like that.
I find trouble extending my elbow, interestingly enough. A simple task, but it always seem like if I extend it too soon, I hit with my elbow, and if I extend my pec sooner to fix that, my elbow does not extend as much before colliding with Uke. My advice is to mess with the wrist. Maybe contract it a bit to speed up the extension, but not too much to the point of hitting with your wrist joint. I imagine getting a boomhit with a backhand would be really hard. The most realistic hypothesis would be if you hit multiple joints with your hand and a few with your triceps, which would be very painful on your elbow and require a lot of ghosting.
Using grab to achieve ghosting works very much like it does in a slap. The problem that is encountered is that the wrist joint is protruding in comparison to the rest of the hand, which did not happen in the slap.
This makes it harder to use grab for ghosting, since the wrist does not shrink in size. If the wrist is already touching in the previous frame, using grab will only make you grab Uke’s bodypart with your wrist, which is an excellent way to get your wrist broken. This makes backhands require control of the speed of your arm to increase ghosting, you really can’t use ghosting to cheat it.
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That is all I have to type for now. Please post questions if you think that I missed something important. Also something to consider:
Toribash is very situational. Don’t be surprised if you find examples of replays where any of what I said does not apply. I don’t wish to teach you about what happens in each specific situation. If I wanted to do that, this would be 200 pages long. The examples I used were a supplement to help understand the point I was trying to get across. It’s good to have experience with familiar situations, but above all, learn to adapt. You can only do that with practice, and no amount of tutorials can really teach you that.
Last edited by pusga; Dec 29, 2014 at 01:54 PM.